Living in Tokyo seems like a dream to Japanese and foreigners alike! In non-pandemic years the numbers agree. In 2019 the population of the Tokyo prefecture grew by nearly 90,000 people while most prefectures declined in population. That same year, 47% of international tourists in Japan visited Tokyo.
Tokyo is a place where nearly everyone can find a place that appeals to them. From the electric town of Akihabara to the upscale and ritzy Ginza, to the more peaceful greeneries of Ueno, it’s impossible to experience Tokyo truly without an extended period of time there. So with such a diverse range of areas within Tokyo, why would anyone want anything else?
Tokyo is the most densely populated area in Japan, and one of the most densely populated places in the world. Apartments are small and expensive and rush hour on the train is an experience I don’t recommend to anyone. Living in the big cities can be exhausting so its no wonder why domestic tourist locations such as Hokkaido and Okinawa are so popular.
As I say, the real Japan lies outside of Tokyo. Sure there are cute inns, public baths, and onsens in Tokyo, but that’s not what Tokyo is know for. Most residents know that there are great hideaways and uncrowded scenic destinations within a few hours by local train or car. So where do they go to relax?
Historic Onsen Towns
Dating back over 1000 years, the warm baths in Atami have been a retreat for Japanese elite. If you had stopped by in the late 1500s, you might have caught the Tokugawa Shogunate relaxing in a pool.
In recent history, booming in the 1950s during the “post-war economic miracle”, the onsen towns of the Izu peninsula were the place to go to escape the hustle and bustle of the city. While not as thriving as they once were, they still provide the optimal retreat to enjoy the volcanic hills and soak in the warm springs. These towns are generally called “Atami Onsen” and “Ito Onsen” just showing how much the baths are valued.
Atami
With a shinkansen station and a line direct to Tokyo, Atami is the first stop on an onsen getaway. The emphasis on the onsen is noticeable at first glance of the city’s mascot, Atsuo. A relaxed-looking old man fresh in his yukata after a soak in the bath.
Many of the famous onsen are within ryokans, traditional Japanese inns. While some require you to be staying at the inn to use the baths, many allow day-tripped to pop in for a soak any time of day. Many are within walking distance of Atami station.
Atami also has some fun art museums, some family-friendly like the MOA, and some R-rated like the Atami Adult Museum (I recommend both if you’re of age). There’s also the Atami castle. It looks traditional, but feels like a tourist attraction. That’s because it was built in 1959 as a tourist attraction. It was also featured in the original Godzilla vs King Kong (1962)!
Ito
Just south of Atami 30 minutes by a local train, Ito is another onsen hot spot. The town features many inns with onsens usable by locals, day-trippers, and overnighters alike! Just like Atami, many are within walking distance of the station.
A bit further south in Izukogen, lies one of my all time favorite onsens “Izukogen no Yu”, with a variety of pools, a sauna, and a lounge area, 1000 yen (~$10) is a steal to get in! Onsens such as Akazawa have private rooms that can be reserved by the hour (perfect for a romantic onsen date), but are a little out of the way from public transport.
Ito is also home to quite a few golf courses, some with their own resorts that include an onsen. There’s nothing more refreshing after a round of 18 than hitting the bath before a nice cold beer.
Shimoda
Making our way to the southern end of the peninsula, Shimoda is known for having the best beaches in Japan outside of Okinawa. With onsens and beaches within walking distances of each other, you don’t have to pick between a cool dip in the ocean or a warm relaxing soak!
If you’re into history, check out Perry Road. Named after Commodore Perry who finalized the US-Shimoda treaty over open trade in 1853, there is a lot to learn in this town!
If onsens aren’t for you, don’t worry. While the Izu peninsula is one of the most scenic and serene getaways you can take from Tokyo, there’s a lot more to explore in the area! Just north of the peninsula lies Gotemba, home to the premium outlets and a swanky craft leather studio. Not to mention all of this is just south of Mt. Fuji. Do you have a favorite spot in the Izu area? Let the Rambling Merchant know in the comments!
